At ELIRD Studio in Sarajevo, we recently hosted an intensive jewellery workshop focused on wax modelling, metal working, stone setting, miniature painting, and enamelling from the 11th to the 15th of November, 2024. The participant, Amra Savel, a talented jewellery design student from the Herbststrasse school - the only dedicated jewellery school in Vienna -reached out to deepen her skills and understanding of these intricate techniques.
The workshop consisted of daily sessions, each lasting a minimum of three hours, offering a deep dive into the essential methods of wax modelling, lost wax casting, stone setting, and finishing metal surfaces. We also introduced the fundamentals of miniature painting and enamelling. As a result, Amra completed the workshop with two unique pieces: a silver ring set with a cabochon amethyst and a button featuring a delicate miniature oil painting sealed with enamel.
Day 1: Wax Modelling - Finding the Form
We began the first day by exploring the art of wax modelling. Given Amra’s background as a dental technician, her adeptness with tools was immediately apparent. Using a reference form as a starting point, we embraced a fluid creative process that allowed the design to evolve, ultimately inspired by the natural beauty of the cabochon amethyst stone chosen for the ring. Here, the focus was on shaping the form rather than refining details, highlighting the importance of viewing mistakes as opportunities to push the boundaries of creativity. Patience, precision, and the articulation of the form were emphasised as key elements in defining the essence of any jewellery piece. By the end of the day, we had successfully transformed a simple wax cube into a promising ring model.
Day 2: Perfecting the Wax Model
The second day was dedicated to refining the wax form to its finest state. We discussed the crucial step of creating a flawless wax model, as even the smallest imperfections can become pronounced in the final casting. Amra’s steady hand and meticulous craftsmanship shone through as she further enhanced the design, incorporating additional elements into the primary form. We then prepared the model for casting, carefully setting it in a gypsum mould for the next day’s exciting process.
Day 3: The Thrill of Casting
Day three brought with it the anticipation of casting. We guided Amra through the entire process, from the technicalities of lost wax casting to the unveiling of the casted silver ring. The result was a beautifully cast piece, ready for the next stage of refinement. Amra took to the task of cutting the ring from the sprue and began shaping it using various cutters, burrs, files, and custom tools we have crafted specifically for our studio’s needs. Our focus remained on achieving the perfect form, as this serves as the foundation for all subsequent work, including stone setting and enamelling.
Day 4: The Art of Miniature Painting
On the fourth day, we stepped away from the jeweller’s bench to dive into the world of miniature painting. Ebrahim shared insights into the unique, handcrafted tools he uses for this intricate art form. We discussed various miniature painting techniques, with a particular focus on those most utilised in our studio. Amra first practised on paper, mastering fine strokes, before moving on to paint a miniature on the prepared button surface. We then demonstrated the enamelling process as a protective and decorative cover for the miniature.
Day 5: Enamelling and Finishing Touches
The final day of the workshop was dedicated to enamelling and putting the finishing touches on the ring. We guided Amra through the intricacies of setting the amethyst stone and applying enamel on a curved surface, a technique requiring great precision and care. The potential for further enhancements and explorations on the ring design were discussed as a take-home project for Amra, along with advice on continuous practice.
Throughout the workshop, we emphasised the value of embracing mistakes as learning opportunities. We encouraged Amra to regularly sketch geometric shapes and lines to loosen her hand, allowing her creativity to flow more freely. We also suggested that she maintain a dynamic interplay between her two-dimensional sketches and three-dimensional models, making adjustments in both as part of her creative process. Her patience and dedication were evident and greatly appreciated.
A Meaningful Exchange of Knowledge
This workshop was a truly meaningful experience for us at ELIRD Studio. As much as we imparted our knowledge, we also gained new insights through the process of teaching and collaboration. We thank Amra for choosing to learn with us - it was an absolute pleasure to be a part of her creative journey.